I traveled to Guatemala about 20 years ago when I was sailing on a 40 foot sailboat. We traveled to the Rio Dolce, Guatemala City, Antigua for Spanish lessons, Panajachel to see Lake Atitlan, and the famous colorful market in Chichicastenango. Well, my friend Deborah and I headed to the same places except Rio Dolce in July of 2011. I have never driven in Guatemala and probably wouldn't recommend it but I really wanted to be able to go where I want to go and when I want to go. The roads are very good, even better than Costa Rica, and well marked for traveling to various destinations. Guatemala is very mountainous with many twists and turns. At times you will go over unmarked speed bumps, and I mean very large speed bumps!! Since there are large hairpin turns and mountainous driving, one must go very carefully at times. Once you enter the villages, you must proceed with care as there are many people, dogs, and vehicles on very small streets. Needless to say, you drive slowly.     
         Chichicastenango is very well known for the colorful market set amongst the Santo Tomas Church. The streets wind around with numerous stalls of very colorful handiwork. Masks, tablecloths, shirts, skirts, hats, and more. I actually found a great bedspread for my bed and will enjoy it for years to come. We met Jose the Inguat (the countries certified guides) to show up the colorful cemetery and Pascual Abaj, the local Mayan shrine dedicated to the earth god Huyup Tak'ah. There was a local shaman with incense, offerings of food and many fires. The cemetery had the same with offerings of food and fires and even an a guy selling  ice cream. Our hotel Santo Tomas had marimba players while each room had their own man to make a fire at night. It was a wonderful experience.
           The ride to Panajachel took us thru a village of Solola where you drive right through the middle of town and boy is it busy and narrow! Thank goodness the signage was great otherwise who knows where we would have ended up. Once thru the village, we had a steep climb down from the pass to Pana. Once in Pana, we got to our booked hotel. The nightlife was pretty good with live music at the Circus Bar every night. One day we headed across the lake to Santiago Atitlan and another to the local market in Solola. Solola is much less touristy than Chichicastenango so had a different flavor. They sell their fruits, vegetables, and meats along with clothing, etc. The aisles were very narrow and everyone walked with a mission to get somewhere and they didn't stop for anyone. There was a whole lot of pushing going on! We would just sit in the square and watch the many women carrying baskets on their heads. I was amazed at their ability to do this. 
                 

        Near Pana, you find the Nature Reserve where they have an observation tower to see the spider monkeys. It was so fun to see these monkeys so close.                        
         After Pana, we headed to Antigua where you have a old colonial town with alot of character. I remember this town well from 20 years ago. This town is well know for the Arch near the square. When in Antigua, you have to count on landmarks as the streets hardly have any street names at all. It was pretty easy to figure it out with Avenidas and and Calles. Everywhere you walk, there are ruins galore. We headed to one of the convents where they only had 28 nuns living and sleeping on concrete. What a life! The monastary Casa Santo Domingo was impressive. They have built a hotel within the grounds with some fine museums, and crypts.
                     

         The nightlife in Antigua was lively with live music every night of the week. We headed to No Se Cafe where we befriended the manager and some of the musicians playing nightly. The best Italian food was at Bistrot Cinq, owned by some American chefs. 
         We drove back to the airport in Guatemala City and it was hectic! I took about 3 wrong turns and ended up at the car rental place right near the airport. 
          I would say that traveling to Guatemala is safe for women to do. I never felt unsafe even walking on very dark streets. 

More photos from Guatemala